Journey Five / Chapter 5

Finland

August 2024

Exploring Finland natural beauty, from the mysterious Silent People installation near Suomussalmi to the rapids and canyons of Oulanka National Park, the Arctic exhibits at Arktikum in Rovaniemi and the Arctic wilderness of Lapland.

Finland marks the first Scandinavian stop on our northern odyssey. After crossing the Baltic Sea we journey through a land defined by vast forests cold rivers and a deep respect for nature. In the far reaches of Kainuu Hiljainen Kansa also known as the Silent People stand watch over a meadow along Highway 5. Created by dancer and choreographer Reijo Kela in 1988 this installation of hundreds of peat headed figures in flowing clothes is both playful and unsettling. Their presence sets the tone for a trip that is about listening as much as seeing and about finding stories in quiet places.

We then embark on a three day hike through Oulanka National Park following the Karhunkierros Bear trail from Ruka into one of Europe most magical landscapes. The path crosses suspension bridges above roaring rapids climbs to cliff top viewpoints and reveals peculiar formations such as the land splitting Oulanka Canyon the island rapids of Taivalkongas the peaceful Ristikallio lookout the nine metre drop of Jyrava waterfall and the tree topped pillar of Rupakivi. Along the way hikers find rustic huts and learn to walk lightly through fragile wilderness.

Our route then takes us to Rovaniemi where the Arktikum museum and science centre offers an immersive introduction to Arctic nature Sami culture and the science behind the Northern Lights. This modern building of glass and turf sits on the banks of the Ounasjoki River and encourages contemplation of life in extreme environments.

The final leg of the chapter unfolds in Lapland. Inari village on the shores of a lake dotted with thousands of islands is the cultural heart of the Sami people. Visitors explore the Siida Museum and Sajos Parliament learn about a way of life tied to reindeer herding fishing and the rhythms of the tundra and hike through lichen covered forest to the 1760 Pielpajarvi Wilderness Church one of the oldest wooden churches in northern Lapland.